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Clothing Items in the General Account of King Phillippe Augustus, 1202-1203, Part I

“Le Premiere Budget de la Monarchie Francaise, Le Compte Générale de 1202-1203” by Ferdinand Lot and Robert Fawtier (1932) features a complete transcription of the first French royal budgetary record still extant.  With this blog, I’ve read through and extracted the pertinent records that related to clothing.  Presented below is a table that features the individual entries.  The Roman numeral represents the page of the record, the Latin original is given, and finally, a proposed translation of the entry is presented.

The records vary between receipts and expenses – the clothing entries are under “Expensa”.  Most entries include the owner or intended recipient of the item, some identifying details of the garment, a time or date of payment/receipt, and finally the cost of the item, in Livres (pounds) and sols (shillings).  From other areas of the accounts, a good horse cost around 50 pounds for value reference.

The specific fabrics listed are stamin (estamine) which is a worsted wool cloth, and not a fulled wool.  Camlet is the other wool.  Most sources think this wool is woven with a warp of angora sheep from Turkey, but another source claims that the word for camlet stems from the low-countries that produced it specifying that the wool was from the “kamm” or combed wool – and thus a form of worsted fabric.  Cendal, a thin silk is often listed, but there are no references in this document to exotic figured silks, which could be found imported earlier from Sicily into Henry the Second’s court.  Furs include gris, vair, miniver, squirrel, and leopard.  There are many entries for wolves and their cubs in the account book, worth about a livre a piece.  At that expense it is more likely they were part of a wolf eradication program and the money given as bounty.

Phillippe Augustus had a blended family.  He had turned away the queen because she had bad breath, but she refused to have the marriage annulled.  Meanwhile, Phillipe married Agnes and had 2 children by her.  Agnes died in 1201, and the orphan children at Poissy are from that union.  One can see that they are well-provided for in the way of clothing, and other entries for food and necessaries also bear that their father cared for them.  They were eventually made legitimate by their father and the church.  Meanwhile, the Queen/Not Queen/Queen also kept court.

Page Latin Transcription Translation
CXLI De duobus palliis Pentecostis Comitis Bellimontis x.L. For two silk cloths for Pentecost for the Count Bellemont x.L.
CXLVII Pro robis sex balistariorum Paciaci vi.L. For six robes for Poissy arbalists vi. L.
CXLIX De sex mappis & sex toalliis iiii.L For six napkins and six towels iiii.L.
CLVI Pro una tunica armer quam Rex habuit octo dies post S. Johannem xv. s. For an arming tunic that the King had eight days after Saint John’s xv. s.
CLVI Pro I. cendallo idem, & pro uno jubeo, quos habuit xv. dies post S. Johannem i.s. For one cendal the same, & for one jupe that he had 15 days after Saint John’s I.s.
CLVI Pro I. tunica de Stamforti, ad Magal’. xv s. For 1 tunic of stamin, at St. Madgalene, xv s.
CLVI Pro I. furura unius supertunicalis Domini Barth. LVII. s. For 1 lining of one overtunic Saint Bartholemew, LVII s.
CLVI Pro I. furura de celdal ad robam viridem quam habuit die Sabbati post medium Augustum. CL. s. For 1 lining of cendal for a green robe had the Sunday after the middle of August.  CL. s.
CLVI Pro supertunicali ad manicas ejuidem panni, furaro de v**. LVII s. For an overtunic with sleeves of the same tunic, lined with vair. LVII s.
CLVI Pro I tunica de Stamfort ad eundem terminum XV. s. For 1 tunic of stamen at the same time XV. s.
CLVI Pro capa de camelino furaro de v. VIII dies post medium Augustum. C. s. For a cloak of camlet lined with vair. VIII days past the middle of August C. s.
CLVI Pro I. tunica de Stamfort’ ad S. Barth. XV. s. For 1 tunic of stamen at Saint Bartholmews XV. s.
CLVI Pro capa domini Hugonis de Gravella, & pro pelicio gris. XII. L. For a cloak for Hugo de Gravella and for a pellicon of gris.  XII. L.
CLVI Pro furura de cendal ad supertuncal’ octo diebus post S. Dionysium. XXVII. s. For lining of cendal for an overtunic eight days after Saint Dionysius.  XXVII s.
CLVI Pro roba de camelino furara de ver, ad Omnium Sanctorum. VIII. L. For a gown of camlet furred with vair, at All Saints VIII. L.
CLVI Pro sua capa de eodem panno, furara de ver. C. s. For his cloak of the same fabric, lined with vair, C. s.
CLVI Pro II. capellis, & pro manicis magni supertunicalis furandis. XX. s. For 2 cowls and for a supertunic’s large sleeves to be lined. XX. s.
CLVI Expensa puerorum Pissiaci Expenses for the children at Poissy
CLVI Pro XVI. ulnis telae ad pannos & ad camifias, ad S. Berthol’ XXXVI. s. For 16 ells of linen for clothes and for chemises at Saint Bartholomews XXXVI. s.
CLVI Pro VII. ulnis panni ad tunicas & ad supertunical’ & ad chapular’ & ad coopertoria, & pro fururis. VIII. L & dimid’. For 7 ells of cloth (wool) and for over tunics and scapulars and for blankest and for linings VIII. L. and a half.
CLVI Pro I. langello, & pro capellis, & pro fresell’ X. s. For 1 woolen baby wrap, and for cowls, and for border trims X. s.
CLVI Pro tunica & supertunicali camerariae, quas habuit ad S. Lazarum. LX. s. For tunics and overtunics for the chamber, that was had at Saint Lazarus LX. s.
CLVI Pro II. peliciis escurellorum, & pro II. leporum. VI. L. & II. s. For 2 pelicons of squirrel and 2 of leopard.  VI. L. and II x.
CLVI Pro subtularibus, & pro auricularibus, XXIII. s. For shoes and for ear coverings (?) XXIII. s.
CLVI Et pro VI. peplis. XXXIII. s. And for 6 veils (or cloths under chins) XXXIII. s.
CLVI Summa XXIII. L, V. s. minus Sum (of childen’s clothes) XXIII. L. less 5 s.
Tags: 12th century, 13th century, inventory, phillipe augustus
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