October 1st, 2018

Warrior Weasel

Clothing Items in the General Account of King Phillippe Augustus, 1202-1203, Part I

“Le Premiere Budget de la Monarchie Francaise, Le Compte Générale de 1202-1203” by Ferdinand Lot and Robert Fawtier (1932) features a complete transcription of the first French royal budgetary record still extant.  With this blog, I’ve read through and extracted the pertinent records that related to clothing.  Presented below is a table that features the individual entries.  The Roman numeral represents the page of the record, the Latin original is given, and finally, a proposed translation of the entry is presented.

The records vary between receipts and expenses – the clothing entries are under “Expensa”.  Most entries include the owner or intended recipient of the item, some identifying details of the garment, a time or date of payment/receipt, and finally the cost of the item, in Livres (pounds) and sols (shillings).  From other areas of the accounts, a good horse cost around 50 pounds for value reference.

The specific fabrics listed are stamin (estamine) which is a worsted wool cloth, and not a fulled wool.  Camlet is the other wool.  Most sources think this wool is woven with a warp of angora sheep from Turkey, but another source claims that the word for camlet stems from the low-countries that produced it specifying that the wool was from the “kamm” or combed wool – and thus a form of worsted fabric.  Cendal, a thin silk is often listed, but there are no references in this document to exotic figured silks, which could be found imported earlier from Sicily into Henry the Second’s court.  Furs include gris, vair, miniver, squirrel, and leopard.  There are many entries for wolves and their cubs in the account book, worth about a livre a piece.  At that expense it is more likely they were part of a wolf eradication program and the money given as bounty.

Phillippe Augustus had a blended family.  He had turned away the queen because she had bad breath, but she refused to have the marriage annulled.  Meanwhile, Phillipe married Agnes and had 2 children by her.  Agnes died in 1201, and the orphan children at Poissy are from that union.  One can see that they are well-provided for in the way of clothing, and other entries for food and necessaries also bear that their father cared for them.  They were eventually made legitimate by their father and the church.  Meanwhile, the Queen/Not Queen/Queen also kept court.

Page Latin Transcription Translation
CXLI De duobus palliis Pentecostis Comitis Bellimontis x.L. For two silk cloths for Pentecost for the Count Bellemont x.L.
CXLVII Pro robis sex balistariorum Paciaci vi.L. For six robes for Poissy arbalists vi. L.
CXLIX De sex mappis & sex toalliis iiii.L For six napkins and six towels iiii.L.
CLVI Pro una tunica armer quam Rex habuit octo dies post S. Johannem xv. s. For an arming tunic that the King had eight days after Saint John’s xv. s.
CLVI Pro I. cendallo idem, & pro uno jubeo, quos habuit xv. dies post S. Johannem i.s. For one cendal the same, & for one jupe that he had 15 days after Saint John’s I.s.
CLVI Pro I. tunica de Stamforti, ad Magal’. xv s. For 1 tunic of stamin, at St. Madgalene, xv s.
CLVI Pro I. furura unius supertunicalis Domini Barth. LVII. s. For 1 lining of one overtunic Saint Bartholemew, LVII s.
CLVI Pro I. furura de celdal ad robam viridem quam habuit die Sabbati post medium Augustum. CL. s. For 1 lining of cendal for a green robe had the Sunday after the middle of August.  CL. s.
CLVI Pro supertunicali ad manicas ejuidem panni, furaro de v**. LVII s. For an overtunic with sleeves of the same tunic, lined with vair. LVII s.
CLVI Pro I tunica de Stamfort ad eundem terminum XV. s. For 1 tunic of stamen at the same time XV. s.
CLVI Pro capa de camelino furaro de v. VIII dies post medium Augustum. C. s. For a cloak of camlet lined with vair. VIII days past the middle of August C. s.
CLVI Pro I. tunica de Stamfort’ ad S. Barth. XV. s. For 1 tunic of stamen at Saint Bartholmews XV. s.
CLVI Pro capa domini Hugonis de Gravella, & pro pelicio gris. XII. L. For a cloak for Hugo de Gravella and for a pellicon of gris.  XII. L.
CLVI Pro furura de cendal ad supertuncal’ octo diebus post S. Dionysium. XXVII. s. For lining of cendal for an overtunic eight days after Saint Dionysius.  XXVII s.
CLVI Pro roba de camelino furara de ver, ad Omnium Sanctorum. VIII. L. For a gown of camlet furred with vair, at All Saints VIII. L.
CLVI Pro sua capa de eodem panno, furara de ver. C. s. For his cloak of the same fabric, lined with vair, C. s.
CLVI Pro II. capellis, & pro manicis magni supertunicalis furandis. XX. s. For 2 cowls and for a supertunic’s large sleeves to be lined. XX. s.
CLVI Expensa puerorum Pissiaci Expenses for the children at Poissy
CLVI Pro XVI. ulnis telae ad pannos & ad camifias, ad S. Berthol’ XXXVI. s. For 16 ells of linen for clothes and for chemises at Saint Bartholomews XXXVI. s.
CLVI Pro VII. ulnis panni ad tunicas & ad supertunical’ & ad chapular’ & ad coopertoria, & pro fururis. VIII. L & dimid’. For 7 ells of cloth (wool) and for over tunics and scapulars and for blankest and for linings VIII. L. and a half.
CLVI Pro I. langello, & pro capellis, & pro fresell’ X. s. For 1 woolen baby wrap, and for cowls, and for border trims X. s.
CLVI Pro tunica & supertunicali camerariae, quas habuit ad S. Lazarum. LX. s. For tunics and overtunics for the chamber, that was had at Saint Lazarus LX. s.
CLVI Pro II. peliciis escurellorum, & pro II. leporum. VI. L. & II. s. For 2 pelicons of squirrel and 2 of leopard.  VI. L. and II x.
CLVI Pro subtularibus, & pro auricularibus, XXIII. s. For shoes and for ear coverings (?) XXIII. s.
CLVI Et pro VI. peplis. XXXIII. s. And for 6 veils (or cloths under chins) XXXIII. s.
CLVI Summa XXIII. L, V. s. minus Sum (of childen’s clothes) XXIII. L. less 5 s.
Warrior Weasel

Clothing Items in the General Account of King Phillippe Augustus, 1202-1203, Part 2

A continuation as the first blog post was too long for Live Journal!

CLVII Dominus Ludovicu, pro dimid’ cendallo ad unum pallium, & pro cendallo ad unum capellum ad ag’. XV. s. Lord Louis, for a half (a bolt?) of cendal for a hanging and for cendal for a cloak at ag. XV. s.
CLVII Pro roba, de viridi forato de celdal, octo dies ante Magdalenum. LX. s. For a gown, of green, furred with cendal, eight days before Saint Magdalenes LX. s.
CLVII Pro roba de Estamfort quam habuit die sabbati post medium Augustum. XXXVI. s. For a robe of stamen that was had the Sunday past the middle of August.  XXXVI. s.
CLVII Pro roba camelini, & pro capa forata quam habuit ad Septembrechiam. X. L. v. s minus For a gown of camlet, and for a lined cloak that was had at September. X. L. less 5. s.
CLVII Pro II. capis pluvialibus quas habuit ad S. Remigium. LXVII. s. For 2 rain cloaks that were had at Saint Remigium. LXVII. s.
CLVII Pro sua roba viridi quam habuit XV. dies ante Omnium Sanctorum. C. s. V. s minus. For his gown of green that was had 15 days before All Saints. C. s. less 5 s.
CLVII Pro sua chapular’ de camelini furator de v. XL. s. For his camlet scapular lined with vari.  XL. s.
CLVII Pro sua roba camelini ad Omnium Sanctorum. IIII. L. For his camlet robe at All Saints. IIII. L.
CLVII Pro capa forata domini Tocelini. C. & IX s. For a lined cloak Lord Tocelini, C. and IX s.
CLVII Pro grisiogr’intorum & muflorum, V. L. For gray gowns and gloves (mufflers) V. L.
CLVII Regina, pro tunica & pallio & supertunicali quam domina Margarita habuit ad medium Augustum. VI. L. III. s minus. The Queen, for a tunic and veil and overtunic that Lady Margaret had at the middle of August.  VI. L. less 3 s.
CLVII Pro roba Reginae, & pro sua capa forata quam habuit ad S. Remigium. XXVIII. L. III. s. minus. For the Queen’s gown, and for her lined cloak that was had at Saint Remigius. XXVII. L. less III. s.
CLVII Pro II. paribus robarum quas Dominae habuerunt. XVIII. L. For 2 pairs of robes that the Ladies had.  VXIII. L.
CLVII Pro uno pellicio grisio, & II. de escurellis. VII. L. & dim’. For a pelicon of gris, and 2 of squirrels. VII. L. and a half.
CLVII Pro II. ulnis de burneta ad caligas. XVI. s. For 2 ells of brunet for stockings.  XVI. s.
CLXXV Rosellus, pro tunica. XX. s. Rosellus, for a tunic.  XX. s.
CLXXIX & robis servientum Archiepiscopi and clothes for the servants of the Archbishop
CLXXXIII Par furura varii minuti quam Rex habuit ad supertunicale de camlino, in craftino compoti, LXV. s. For a miniver lining that the King had for the camlet supertunic, in the craftino account, LXV. s.
CLXXXIII Et pro furura varii minuti ad capam de camelino, ad S. Andream, C. sol. And for a miniver lining for the camlet cloak, at Saint Andrew, C. sol.
CLXXXIII Pro furura minuti varii ad supertunicale quod habuit tunc, LXX. s. For a miniver lining for a supertunic he had then, LXX. s.
CLXXXIII Pro capa scarlatae quam Rogerus Pica habuit, XV. deibus ante Natele, VI. L & IIII. x
s.
For a scarlet cloak that Roger Pica had, VS. days before the Nativity. VI. L. and IIII. s.
CLXXXIII Pro capa scarlatae molatae quam Rex tunc habuit. XV. L. For an embroidered scarlet cloak that the King had then. XV. L.
CLXXXIII Pro roba sua scarlatae quam habuit ad Natale, XVI. L. For his scarlet gown that he had for the Nativity. XVI. L.
CLXXXIII Pro capa quam Malc’ habuit VIII. diebus post Natale, IIII. L. & III. s. For a cloak that Malc’ had eight days after the Nativity, IIII. L. and III. s.
CLXXXIII Dominus Ludovicus habuit post compotum I. capam viridem & I. capularium ad S. Andream, quae costaverunt VI. L, III. s. minus. Lord Louis had after the accounting 1 green cloak and 1 scapular for Saint Andreas that cost VI. L. less III. s.
CLXXXIII Et pro I. supertunicali de camelino qudo habuit tunc, LXIII. s. And for 1 overtunic of camlet at the same time. LXIII. s.
CLXXXIII Pro sua roba nigra quam habuit ad Natales, C. s. III. s. minus For his black gown that was had at Nativity.  C. s. less III. s.
CLXXXIII Et pro sua roba de camelino de Natali, IIII. L. & IIII. s. And for his gown of camlet for Nativity, IIII. L. and IIII. s.
CLXXXIII Pro suo pellicio XXXV. s. And for his pelicon XXXV. s.
CLXXXIII Uxor Domini Ludovici, pro sua roba viridi ad Natale, XIII. L. V. s. minus. The wife of Lord Louis, for her green gown for the Nativity.  XIII. L. less V. s.
CLXXXIII Pro pellicio Margaretae, XX. s. For a pelicon for Margaret.  XX. s.
CLXXXIII Pro duabus robis de burneta quas nutrices Pissiaci habuerunt ad Natale, XXVII. L. & dim’. For 2 burnet gowns for the Poissy nurses that they had for Nativity., XXVII. L. and a half.
CLXXXIII Pro duabus robis scarlatae quas pueri habuerunt ad Natale, IIII. L. & XII. s. For 2 scarlet gowns that the children had for Nativity, IIII. L. and XII. s.
CLXXXIII Pro roba quam cameraria habuit VIII. diebus post Purificationem, LX. s. For chamber robes had eight days after the Feast of the Purification, LX. s.
CLXXXIII Pro serico ad jacendum pueris, & capellis & fresellis, & pro pannis & tuallis & camisis quas tunc pueri habuerunt, XLI. s. For silk for the delight of the children, and cowls and trims, and for fabric and towels and chemises that the children had at this time.  XLI. x.
CLXXXVI Castellanus Ebroicarum, pro roba, X. L. At the Ebroica castel, for gowns, X. L.
CC Pro roba Hugonis de Gravella ad carni-pruvium, XIIII. L. For a gown for Hugo de Gravella at Carnipruvius.  XIIII. L.
CC Pro furatura minuti varii ad capam de camelino, & pro forando capucio capae ad aquam quam Rex habuit in prima die quadragesimae, VI. L. For a miniver lininng for a camlet cloat and for lining and hooded cloak for water that the King had the first day of Quadragesimae.  VI. L.
CCI Pro I. capello furato de grisio, IIII. sol. For 1 cowl furred with gris.  IIII. sol.
CCI Pro roba scarlatae ad Pascha, XCI. L. & dim. For a scarlet gown for Easter. XCI. L. and a half.
CCI Et pro supertunicali furato de vario minuto quod portatum fuit in exercitum, LXII. s. For an overtunic lined with miniver worn while with the army, LXII. s.
CCI Et pro capa camelini furata de minuto vario quam habuit tunc, VI. L, V. s. minus. And for a cloak of camlet lined with miniver that was had at that time.  VI. L. less V. s.
CCI Pro II. tunicis de Esteinfort ad armare, XXXIIII. s. For 2 tunics of stamen for arming, XXXIIII. s.
CCI Pro roba scarlatae ad Penthecosten, XVI. L. & dim. For a scarlet gown for Pentecost. XVI. L.  and a half.
CCI Pro furura supertunicalis viridis de vario minuto quam habuit tunc, LXV. s. For lining a green overtunic with miniver that was had at that time.  LXV. s.
CCI Pro furura varia magni supertunicalis ad surgendum, C. s. IIII. s. minus. For vair lining for large overtunics for rising, C. s. less IIII. s.
CCI Pro sua capa ad Pentecosten, IX. L. & dim. For his cloak for Pentecost.  IX L. and a half.
CCI Pro furura varia ad robam Willelmi de Garlanda, VIII. L. & dim. For a vair lining for the gown of William de Garland, VIII. L. and a half.
CCI Pro tribus paribus robarum Militum novorum ad Penthecosten, XXII. L. For three sets of new military robes at Pentecost.  XXII. L.
CCI Coopertorium novum furatum de cendalo, LXXII. s. ad Penthecosten.. New coverlets lined with cendal, LXXII. s. at Pentecost.
CCI Pro VI. cendalis ad capam & supertunicale & ad capucium capae ad aquam, & pro I. tunica ad armare, & pro I. tunica Domni Ludovici, & pro duabus tunicis cendalis viridis ad armare, VIII. L. For 6 [bolts] of cendal for cloaks and overtunics and hooded cloaks against water, and for 1 arming tunic, and for 1 tunic for Lord Louis and for 2 green cendal arming tunics.  VIII. L.
CCI Pro tribus cendalibus & dim’, & dimidia ulna, nigris, ad armaturas faciendas, C. s. For three [bolts] and a half of cendal and half an ell, black, for the making of armour.  C. x.
CCI Pueri Pissiaci.  Die Sabbati prima quadragesimae, pro VIII. ulnis telae ad camisias & ad pannos faciendos, XVI. s. Children of Poissy.  The first Sunday of Quadragesima, for VIII. ells of linen for chemises and to make clothing, XVI. s.
CCI Pro XXIIII. ulnis telae ad camisias Dominarum ad eundem terminum. XL. s. For 24 ells of linen for chemises for the Ladies at the same time, XL. s.
CCI Pro camisiis camerariarum, XV. s. For chamber chemises, XV. s.
CCI Pro IIII. tuallis, VII. s. For IIII. towels. VII. s.
CCI Pro Xii. ginplis ad opus Dominarum & camerariarum, & pro laqueo serico, LXIII. s. For 12 wimples for use of the ladies and those of the chamber and for silk nets. LXIII. s.
CCI Pro roba camerariae tunc, LVIII. sol. For a chamber gown, then LVIII. sol.
CCI Pro tunicis & supertunicalibus & pelliciis & caligis quas pueri habuerunt ad Pascha, C. & VII. s. For tunics and overtunics and pelicons and boots that the children had for Easter, C. and VII. s.
CCI Pro tunicis & supertunicalibus & pelliciis grisiis ad Penthecosten, IIII. L. & dim. For tunics and overtunics and pelicons of gris for Pentecost.  IIII. L. and a half.
CCI Pro duabus paribus robarum quas Dominae habuerunt ad Penteosten. For two sets of robes that the Ladies had for Pentecost.
CCI Pro XLVIII. ulnis telae ad quatuor paria pannorum quos habuerunt VIII. diabus post Pentechosten, LXXXIII. s. For XLVIII. ells of linen for four sets of clothes that they had 8 days after Pentecost.  LXXXIII. s.
CCI Pro II. paribus pannorum ad camerarias, XX. s. For 2 sets of clothing for the chamberers XX. s.
CCI Pro XI. ulnis telae ad camisias puerorum, & ad tunicum, & ad unum cheinse, XXII. s. For XI. ells linen for children’s chemises, and tunics, and for a cheinse.  XXII. s.
CCI Pro mappis & tuallis, XI s. For napkins and towels.  XI. s.
CCI Pro robis Domini Ludovici & uxoris suae, C. & CLV. L. V. s. minus For robes for Lord Louis and his wife, C and CLV. L. less V. s.
CCII Et pro papilionibus, & cendallis, & aliis harnesiis, VII-XX, L, XIIII. s. minus. And for a pavilion, and cendals, and all kinds of harness, VII-XX (140) L. less XIIII s.
CCIII Et pro vestibus servientum Girardi de Marc & Galteri de Roinai, CC. L. For clothing the servants of Gerard de Marc and Galteri de Raoinai, CC. L.